Fashion is always evolving, and in this upscaling industry where houses showcase their collections for the upcoming season, the menswear universe has taken a relevant space, practically in Milan, where craftsmanship and utility take the lead.
With a surprise drop of 171 looks, Alessandro Michele debuted his vision for Valentino with a Resort 2025 collection while Milan Fashion Week was happening. Very much 70s inspired, with maximalism at its best, accessories over bags, prints over prints and references to Valentinno Garavani’s early work, the Italian designer caught the industry’s attention with a large, strong and self coded proposal, still, previewing his most awaited return to the runway in September.
On the regular schedule there was Moschino, a very subtle, still colorful and fun collection by Adrian Appiolaza, the Argentinian designer who took the creative direction. Wearable, relatable and way more commercial than what we are used to seeing at Franco Moschino’s codes reinterpretation catwalks nowadays.
And speaking of tradition, Silvia Venturini Fendi was there to reinforce Fendi’s interest in developing a new idea of what the uniform is all about. Being a creative force during decades, the Italian designer has shown once again how the men of today carry himself with statement pieces, fun cuts, leather knowledge and heritage appreciation. Very classy, still bold.
Just as was expected, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons had delivered. Once again the very much loved fashion duo presented their vision for the minimal, practical and propositive Prada man. Innovation has always been part of Prada’s DNA and with this collection where clothing pieces transform themselves into other ones, simplicity, cut changes and detailed touches seem to be part of what menswear means today.
For that there’s JW Anderson and his Spring 2025 collection, where volumes, craftsmanship relevance and statement colorful pieces highlight his vision for the upcoming season. At his own brand, he explores juxtaposition, deconstruction and literal conceptualization of objects. Fun, commercial and wearable, wasn’t it?
As for trendy and wearable, there’s Sabato de Sarno’s Gucci, where minimalism and colors were the main dish. As the models even walked outside of the venue, a sign of welcoming everybody to Gucci, his clothes spoke summertime, fresh air and short shorts implementation. Sabato’s Gucci is timeless, it sells and it’s somehow more conservative, a radical change from what Michele did for the big Italian label.
Ready for what’s coming, because Menswear season sets the tone for the rest of the year in fashion, trends and movement.
Written by
Juan José Jaimes