As the Haute Couture Week was coming to an end, mixing emotions with Vogue World happening at Place Vedôme celebrating French fashion history, the Parisian streets are now ready to commemorate the upcoming Olympic Games 2024; the most anticipated sports event of the year, that had also strongly influenced the acclaimed and exclusive runways in the French capital.
So it was seen at Christian Dior, where Maria Grazia Chiuri once again went all in for practicalism, comfortness and a little bit of bronze, silver and gold. Ever since her debut, Dior’s Couture collections are more focused on usability, rather than theatricals and statements. Still, there’s always some looks to rescue, and her will to always showcase feminism.
There’s also the classy Chanel Couture, one of the most awaited collections of the season since Virginie Viard, the former Creative Director surprisingly left. It was staged at Ópera Garnier and designed by the inhouse Creative Studio, while Lagerfeld’s Chanel codes were more present and vibrant, there’s still the feeling of a missing piece at the helm of the most important House of Fashion in the world.
Nevertheless and paradoxically, this season’s biggest names in French Haute Couture were started by Americans: Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli and Thom Browne.
Exploring surrealism goes beyond brands like Schiaparelli, it has been clear and stated by Daniel’s restless worlds, ideas and fabric exploration. That’s why Haute Couture still means something nowadays, thanks to the feeling of dreaming while being alive, thanks to not only craftsmanship as a highlight, but pushing limits and building universes, where art becomes fashion and it becomes something necessary to survive.
Not far from being the most talked about one, Thom Browne presented his second Haute Couture Collection ever, and it was visceral, muscular, and human.
The king of fashion storytelling has built a tremendous and spectacular creme/off-white paradise where strength, blood, muscles, exercise and love, most of it all love, was and still is, what the human being is seeking for. With a beautifully made collection, the American designer has perfectly evoked what’s going on in the world, never leaving aside the capacity of making dreams or nightmares something tangible, something Couture.
Written by
Juan José Jaimes